28°-50° Wine Workshop and Kitchen – Marylebone
This is one of three 28°-50° restaurants in London. Each is kind of independently run so apart from a few wines and dishes, they are pretty much left to their own devices.
The Marylebone restaurant is quietly situated a few paces from busy Oxford Street, (the nearest tube station, Bond Street) away from the hustle and bustle of that shopping behemoth, in a modern building with the tables nicely spaced, giving a confident air of a modern British bistro although the cuisine could probably be more correctly described as Modern French.
Having suffered overcooked food at a trendy gastropub in Chelsea the day before, it was a treat to come here and sample some above-average offerings at reasonable prices. My scallops accompanied by a pea purée, pancetta and lemon confit were delicate, succulent and soft – so different from some of the sinewy ones you can get elsewhere. My friend’s crab salad with lemon and turmeric cous-cous, thankfully included only white meat which is a much more pleasant eating experience than slithering through the brown. We both had the onglet from 28 days US grain-fed beef correctly cooked as called for – rare. Accompanied by a simple béarnaise sauce and some skinny fries, it made a simple but satisfying dish. Home-made banana and passion fruit sorbet was a perfect accompaniment to the small glass of Fritz Lang’s Chardonnay Beerenauslese from Austria and the overall pleasure of the meal was enhanced by the choice of some 40 different wines by the glass – which you could have in 75ml., 125 ml., or 250ml. glasses. We had 10 75ml. glasses of 8 different wines which gave us a lovely representation of what the wine list could offer – and if you add that up that’s only a bottle between us – but what fun! The bill came to £119.87 between us including service, which was about the same price that we paid in the gastropub but with an infinitely more satisfying result.
There is a tremendous choice of eateries in London around this price point, but there is also a tremendous variation in quality. Whilst this branch of 28°-50° can never claim to produce haut cuisine, it nevertheless produces above average food and represents good value for money with the added bonus of a seriously food friendly wine list.
28°-50° Wine Workshop and Kitchen
15-17 Marylebone Lane
London W1U 2NE
Tel: 020 7486 7922
Around £60 per person including a decent amount of wine and an “optional” service charge of 12.5%
Open all week for lunch and dinner – last orders vary, check the website
Wine list 16
Value for money 11