Since the mid-1990s Christian von Guradze has restored the reputation of this large and historic estate. Its 86 ha of vineyards include several of the Pfalz’s top sites which under the new classification system have been designated Erste Lage (for Grosses Gewächs, GG). The focus has been to produce a top full-bodied dry Riesling in each and these wines, all Spätlese Trocken, much more closely resemble top Alsace wines than anything from other areas in Germany. Forster Jesuitengarten is rich and minerally with real weight and an Alsace-like oiliness; the Kirschenstück is a brilliant wine with terrific minerality, great intensity, concentration and excellent ageing potential; Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen shows an unusual, spicy character and deep, pure fruit; while Ruppertsberger Gaisböhl is broader but long and classy. Less expensive, the ‘B’-rated Wachenheimer Rechbächel and Ruppertsberger Hoheburg are a little lighter but have good length and intensity. Cheaper again is a Bürklin Estate Riesling, which offers good fruit character. Other good wines include a very sweet Scheurebe Beerenauslese that is just rescued by its acidity and a very intense sweet Muskateller TBA with rich, vibrant, apricotty fruit that also teeters on the brink. Some Chardonnay and Spätburgunder are also made.
To find out more about Bürklin-Wolf and their wines, and to see how we reviewed and rated their wines you can check out the Regional Guide to Germany..
Or indeed you can check out the new extensively updated 9th edition Wine Behind the Label Wine Guide that is 2250 pages, it reviews around 4000 vineyards and over 30,000 wines. (DM)