Castellari Bergaglio Gavi
Really decent Gavi is a relatively rare entity but Mario Bergaglio and his wife Vanda produce not just one but four fine examples from more than 10 ha of vineyards. The wines are perfumed with lots of fruit intensity and real depth and penetration on the palate. The wines are balanced too and underpinned by good acidity. Rolona, from older vines, has more depth and intensity than the floral, herbal Fornaci from vineyards at Tassarolo. Rovereto is produced from the oldest vineyards surrounding the winery and can be richer and more minerally. More unusual is Pilìn, produced from a selection of the healthiest fruit suitable for drying. After 30–40 days, the grapes are then fermented and aged in barriques. Only recently has it qualified as Gavi due to more relaxed ageing requirements but it adds breadth and texture if at the expense of purity and intensity. All have sufficient structure to keep for at least 3–4 years.
To find out more about Castellari Bergaglio and their wines, and to see how we reviewed and rated their wines you can check out the Wine Guide North-West Italy..
Or indeed you can check out the new extensively updated 9th edition Wine Behind the Label Wine Guide that is 2250 pages, it reviews around 4000 vineyards and over 30,000 wines.