Heinrich Hartl Thermenregion
Seventh generation winemaker Heinrich Hartl is in charge of the 15 ha family property, plus 3 rented ha – producing 100,000 bottles, 70/30 red/white. The family still get involved in tastings, but ultimately, Hartl makes the decisions. The estate’s reds comprise Pinot Noir; St Laurent; Zweigelt (including over 50-year old vines); as well as Cabernet, Merlot and Blauburger; and the rest, local varietals. Whites include Rotgipfler (including 35-40 year old vines); Weissburgunder; Sauvignon Blanc; Muskateler; and the rest, Chardonnay, Gewurtztraminer and locals. Hartl offers updated versions of tried and true styles, sticking to what he feels works best for the region’s cold winters and warm summers. Whites are soft and aromatic, with ripe – but not overripe – fruit, good acidity and depth of flavour. Natural yeasts coax the best from the heavier whites. For all wines, Hartl loves experimenting with different variables – hang time, fermentation temperature, keeping parcels separate – and vinifies in tanks from 800-3500l and then blends the lots. Reds ferment in stainless steel, temperaturecontrolled open vats. Best bets include the powerful and interesting Rotgipfler, a wine with a point of view – and the two red reserves, which are fruit-forward but bright rather than explosive, 100% faithful versions of their varietal. Pinot Noir has unassuming, silky tannins and a touch of sweetness but no flavour from a bit of new oak. (MR)
To find out more about Heinrich Hartl and their wines, and to see how we reviewed and rated their wines you can check out the Wine Guide Austria..
Or indeed you can check out the new extensively updated 9th edition Wine Behind the Label Wine Guide that is 2250 pages, it reviews around 4000 vineyards and over 30,000 wines.