Kurt Angerer Kamptal
Three unoaked Grüner Veltliners from differing soils are arguably the most consistent and balanced of this increasingly fine and diverse range of whites and reds from 27 ha. Kies from red gravel is harvested first and made in the biggest volume and has plenty of intensity and good structure. Significantly better is Loam from loess soils, which is riper and more distinctive, while Spies from granite soils is tight when young but promising. Eichenstraude is another bottling of Grüner from a small parcel of late-harvested fruit from old vines. It has added breadth but also an intrusive leesy oak influence. Better is Unfiltriet, which, though barrel-fermented and aged, is well balanced and has impressive breadth and expression that would not shame many a Meursault producer. A flavoursome, spicy, creamy Pinot Blanc that sees similar treatment is less good. Donatus Riesling is very ripe, concentrated and powerful. Reds are also successful with good fruit intensity and varietal character but in general could use a little more depth and less oak. Merlot includes a little Cabernet Sauvignon.
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