Mac Forbes (Yarra Valley/Strathbogie Ranges)
❁ Mac Forbes (Yarra Valley/Strathbogie Ranges) www.macforbes.com
Mac Forbes 3 Osborne Court, Hawthorn, Vic 3122
Tel: 03 9818 8099 Fax: 03 9818 8299
Before setting up his eponymous label, Mac Forbes’ CV included stints in the Yarra Valley at Mount Mary and in Europe, including Austria, where he still makes wine. Unsurprising then that his approach is terroir driven. Sourcing fruit under long term contract from several vineyards in the Yarra Valley and Strathbogie Ranges, Forbes has a foot in two cutting edge camps. He is at the vanguard of producers seeking to express the Yarra’s sub-regionality, also those crafting off-dry Riesling. At the time of writing, in addition to a generic Yarra Pinot Noir (not tasted) he makes five single vineyard Pinot Noirs of differing structure and intensity, depending on site – Coldstream, Woori Yallock, Gruyere, Dixon’s Creek (not tasted) and Yarra Glen. From a cool, elevated site at 600m, Forbes’ off-dry Strathbogie Ranges Riesling is perhaps Australia’s most deftly balanced example of this niche but growing style, with ample line and tension despite over 30 grams of residual sugar (Rieslings are labelled by reference to the amount of residual sugar). In the winery, hands off rather than ultra-protective winemaking favours site over fruit, making for particularly subtle, complex Pinot Noir and Riesling, the latter finding particularly funky, mineral expression in Tradition Riesling, which sees three months skin contact. These aromatic, relatively delicate varieties from cool climate sites seem to suit Forbes’ ripe but crunchy low alcohol style better than his slightly lean Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon (Syrah not tasted) or “Project Wines,” a King Valley Barbera and Yarra Valley Arneis. They also bode well for his next project in Strathbogie Ranges: planting the currently quarantined Grüner Veltliner for which he has sourced cuttings from his Austrian (Carnuntum) project. As of the 2007 vintage, Hugh Cabernet has metamorphosed into a Bordeaux blend which should soften its edges. (SA)
To find out more about Mac Forbes and their wines, and to see how we reviewed and rated their wines you can check out the Regional Guide here..
Or indeed you can check out the Main Guide that is 2250 pages, reviews over 4000 vineyards and over 30,000 wines here …