Due east of the Wachau region, on the Traisen, a tributary of the Danube, Ludwig Neumayer has 8 ha of scattered parcels of vineyard. Despite the relative obscurity he makes better wines than some of those with parcels in the Wachau’s highly rated sites. His best wines are derived from Grüner Veltliner and Riesling although Weissburgunder, Chardonnay and Sauvignon are also important. In difficult vintages the wines could potentially struggle for full ripeness but there is an artisanal approach that ensures good intensity to cool citrusy fruit. The Wein vom Stein wines in particular, from a selection of the best parcels, show fine fruit expression, purity and length of flavour, even if they are slightly austere in their youth. Both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are classy and mineral and best with at least 2 or 3 years’ age. Weissburgunder from the same site (unoaked but long on the lees) has good concentration and purity. Also interesting is IKON Sauvignon Blanc; from late-harvested fruit and partly barrel-fermented it retains a certain purity and balance that many others in this style lack.
To find out more about Neumayer and their wines, and to see how we reviewed and rated their wines you can check out the Wine Guide Austria..
Or indeed you can check out the new extensively updated 9th edition Wine Behind the Label Wine Guide that is 2250 pages, it reviews around 4000 vineyards and over 30,000 wines.