Franz Prager did much to establish the pre-eminence of top dry whites from the Wachau. His daughter Ilse and her winemaker husband Toni Bodenstein have sought to produce dry wines of ever-greater harmony and longevity as well as making some fine sweet wines when conditions permit. From the village of Weissenkirchen come several fine Smaragd Rieslings, including a superb minerally, peachy Steinriegl that is firm when young but with great depth and length, adding richness and complexity with age. Both Riesling and Grüner Veltliner from the Achleiten site are also very fine and can show a little spice as well as an intense fruit depth. Fine Auslese and occasional TBA examples are also made from this site. Of the other fine Rieslings, a very refined Wachstum Bodenstein Riesling (from the highest vineyard at 460m) contrasts with a bolder, more forward Kaiserberg example and a distinctive, minerally, cool-fruited Klaus. All wines benefit from even more age than is typical for the best Wachau whites; Rieslings need 5 years but will keep for a decade. An intense, fruit-rich Chardonnay Smaragd is also made and has good structure and depth.
To find out more about Prager and their wines, and to see how we reviewed and rated their wines you can check out the Wine Guide Austria..
Or indeed you can check out the new extensively updated 9th edition Wine Behind the Label Wine Guide that is 2250 pages, it reviews around 4000 vineyards and over 30,000 wines.