R & A Pfaffl Weinviertel
Weinviertel is the little known region in the north-eastern corner of Austria, north of Vienna. Roman Pffafl’s 53 ha, spread over 10 villages, actually lie (mostly) just outside of Vienna (and the Wien wine zone). Now working with his son, who is also called Roman, he has proved what is possible here with particularly good Riesling and Grüner but also good Sauvignon and soundly made reds. A good Grüner, Zeiseneck is like all the single vineyard examples produced under the new DAC but better are a cool, minerally Hundsleiten Reserve (from sandstone soils) and deeper, more detailed Goldjoch Reserve (loamy soils), which is fermented in and then aged for 12 months, in large oak. Also to be considered is a DAC Hiedviertel example and Hommage, a DAC Reserve from a vineyard selection. Arguably there is a bigger quality differential between two Rieslings, a fine Mosel-like Terrassen Sonnleiten (from stony terraces) and the excellent pure, ripe (but botrytis free) Am Berg which has lovely balance. Sauvignon is distinctive and elderflower scented with crunchy pure fruit and good structure while a barrique-aged and fermented Chardonnay Rossern can be rich but balanced. Of the reds both St. Laurent (also coming from Waldgärten) and Pinot Noir are intense and fruit expressive, and best drunk with 3-5 years’ age. Zweigelt also comes from two further vineyards Sandstein and a reserve from Burggarten. Both ‘Excellent’ (not tasted) and Heidrom are blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with some Zweigelt in “Excellent”. Also made are Chardonnay Exklusiv and Weissburgunder Nussern. Wien 1 and Wien 2 are inexpensive white and red blends respectively from vineyards in the Wien zone.
To find out more about R & A Pfaffl and their wines, and to see how we reviewed and rated their wines you can check out the Wine Guide Austria..
Or indeed you can check out the new extensively updated 9th edition Wine Behind the Label Wine Guide that is 2250 pages, it reviews around 4000 vineyards and over 30,000 wines.